January 28th, 2006

Day 12: How not to Safari in Africa!

Posted in General, Travel & Adventure by Indra

Our 5 night stay in Nairobi, Kenya was prepaid vacation including accommodation for 3 nights a The Meridian in Nairobi and a 2 day-tent Safari including meals in Amboselli National Park in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. So lets start with the Meridian, we thought we would rough it out in a 3 star hotel…but we were not quite prepared for cockroaches, white towels that look grey, noisy hallways, tepid to lukewarm water for showers etc. etc.. not something I would plan to do!

The Safari was indeed an adventure.. we were happy to see the 4×4 vehicle that was transporting us. Definitely an improvement over the wreck we had at our disposal for $50 per day. We were charged $25 per person to share the same car. Not sure if this the norm..definitely worth investigating prior to getting there.

Getting out of Nairobi was a bit of a challenge with the Matatus being on strike and blocking certain roads and slowing down the city.

We stop for lunch on the outskirts of Nairobi and it is 1:30 p.m. already! We left the hotel around 10:30 a.m, our guide had a couple of stops to make, one of them being the bank. The drive to Amboselli seems longer than the 3 hrs it actually is. The roads are very bumpy, dusty and hot.

About 2 hrs into the drive, passing many Masai villages we hear a loud bang! One of the tires has a flat.

A few young Masaii men came down from the Missionary we had just passed to see the action. I notice one of the wearing a pretty beaded bangle, orange

with blue and white stripes! I told him I thought it was lovely, he immediately takes it off and offers it to me. I graciously accept, it was such a spontaneous and sincere gesture that I could not decline. His name is James and I just picked up mail from this young man who is interested in becoming a partner of LifeSpices! Fantastic!

At the gates of the Park we are told that the entry fee is higher than what was prepaid. The explanation is long and convoluted, we scrap some money between us to cover the extra costs.

Our arrival time in the park is later than expected due to the delays. Its

about 7p.m. and it is getting dark, the park looks very menacing. We are lost! The driver is a genius, he picks the safest option which is to follow the signs to Serena Lodge where we can fuel up, ask for directions to the camp site and get something to eat.

At the lodge, we get a chance to stretch our legs, walk around, snoop at the guests dining in the lodge from windows. We are hungry! Its not clear to us, what is planned for dinner. Our guide seems to be hovering around asking a lot of questions of the Lodge staff. Apparently, eating at a 5 star lodge is not within his budget and he finds out there are no other options. So we are checking out the store for food at the staff quarters and I think I heard someone suggest that we buy the food reserved for the staff. Some quiet negotiations are occurring. We decide to do some more exploring around the gardens before heading back to the car. The driver informs us that everything is under control as the Guide is bringing back some food. Its about 8:30 p.m. and we are getting hungrier!

The guide comes back with a big white, beaming smile with some food in his hands. Lets see now, 2 packs of shortbread cookies, a small packet of peanuts and 4 packs of milk. Hmm, I don’t drink milk and not sure how long the cookies and the peanuts are going to sustain us. But he promises a big brunch in the morning.

Its 9 p.m. and the men are pitching tent. David, one of the park staff members jumped into the car to see us safely to the Campsite and help pitch the tent.

9:45 p.m. the tent is pitched and we ask David, a Masai who has spent his life on the Park, for some safety tips in the wild.

Rule # 1: Always carry a flashlight,

Rule # 2: Keep a campfire going to keep the animals away.

We discover, our guide has no flashlight and he is reluctant to buy firewood as you have to pay for it! Apparently we are safe with the 4 feet high electrocuted wired fence is. But there are no locked gates and the entrance is wide open. We are pitched fairly close to the entrance. Lovely!We can hear animals as we slip into our sleeping bags. I am so tired and

quickly fall into a deep sleep. Next morning, the monkeys are hanging off the tree to greet us. There are animal track marks around the tent area…could be hyenas or Cheetahs, not sure if we really want to know. We take off for an early morning game drive around 7 a.m. and then for some breakfast back at the lodge.

The animals do not disappoint us. Elephants, zebras, Wilder Beast, Ostrich

es, Hyenas, Buffalos, and of course the occasional Masai moving through the park with slow purpose. Some heading for the water, and others like the lions preparing for rest after an active night.

>We are looking forward to breakfast. The guide and driver are at the reception in some quiet negotiations with the front desk staff. After what seemed like eternity, they motion us to the bar for some snacks as the breakfast at the restaurant is not within budget. Well, two hungry and cranky women is not a pleasant site anytime of the day, particularly in the morning. It was time for some clear and direct communications. After hopelessly, trying to determine the issues behind the budget, we decide to remain at the lodge, and have the 2 men meet us back at the lodge at 5p.m. for an evening game drive! After the men left, we dashed to the restaurant for a big breakfast!

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